The Situation

Nepal has a centuries-long, complicated history of rivalry between various kingdoms within what is now it's modern territory. While interesting indeed, it is not essential knowledge for today's trekker in Nepal. What should be of more pressing concern are the current social and political scenes of the country, largely surrounding the Communist Party of Nepal, more often referred to as the Maoists. While this brief history lesson is far from complete and absent of strong opinions or analysis on the issue, this entry to meant to provide a small glimpse of the political climate into which we are entering.

While social grievances and political action from the communists date back much further, in 1996, the Maoists made violently clear their intentions to displace the royal parliamentary government of the time and establish a socialist republic through a people's war. The ensuing Nepal Civil War lasted ten years, claimed nearly 13,000 lives, and displaced over 100,000 people.

In 2001, nine of the most prominent members of the royal family, including the king and queen, were murdered allegedly by the crown prince, who then committed suicide, after being denied his choice of bride. There has been wide speculation surrounding the events and there is evidence and strong belief that the king's brother was actually responsible for the murders. Following the massacre, said brother then inherited the throne, quickly abolishing the government and seizing absolute power.

Amid competing political factions, this failed attempt to take control of the government left the country increasingly unstable and the new king was forced to instate a new government only one week later. As support for the monarchy decreased and the government grew even more unstable, a similar situation played out in 2005, when the king once again dismissed the government and took full executive powers. Rather than securing control and quelling opposition forces, the move spurred the 2006 democracy movement in Nepal.

With the Maoist's calling for a ceasefire, the Seven Party Alliance (SPA), an alliance of those against the royal takeover, boycotted elections, launched agitation programs, and called for a general strike. Despite government measures against unrest and protesters, large demonstrations took place in Kathmandu with many supporters coming from more rural areas. It had become clear that the movement was no longer just opposition by the Maoists, but a much wider people's movement. After three weeks of a nationwide general strike, the king agreed to restore parliament, hold elections, and called on the SPA to nominate a prime minister. The SPA was also adamant on the drafting of a new constitution.

Striping the king of most of his powers, the constitution was accepted, but meant to only be temporary. In 2008, the so-called May 18 Act declared the deposition of the monarchy and established Nepal as a federal democratic republic. In elections that same year, the Maoists won the largest number of seats in the newly created constituent assembly, forming a coalition government that included most of the parties in the assembly. With no single party commanding a majority, the CA has been charged with the task of creating a constitution - a goal that has not yet been realised.

Power struggles and political tensions have continued. In 2009, the coalition government was toppled and a new coalition of major parties, excluding the Maoists, was established. Only a month ago, the prime minister of this newest government resigned in hope of salvaging democracy through the creation of yet another government and the long-awaited drafting of a constitution.

The Warning:
The Canadian government currently has no official warning against travel to Nepal; however, it encourages travelers to exercise a high degree of caution, citing much of the history outlined above and the potential for unrest during times of instability. DFAIT's travel report on Nepal states, "You should carefully evaluate the implications for your security and safety before deciding to travel to Nepal. Following an intense period of unrest and armed conflict, the political and security situation remains fragile and volatile. Canadians in Nepal should maintain a high level of personal security awareness at all times." The travel report also includes specific information on strikes, the Maoist insurgency, and trekking.

I note all of this not because Dee and I are considering not going to Nepal. We are absolutely committed to this adventure. We feel it is best to know the history, be informed on the current situation, and not accept this risk blindly. Seems like a bit more than just a trekking adventure now, eh?!